Sunday, October 2, 2016

Canal du Midi, France: Self Drive Boating Holiday

On my long list of things to do, was a self drive boating holiday along the Canal du Midi in France.
We talked with our friends about doing this trip for years while we were both living in France.  Fast forward a few years later and one moves to Florida and another to Spain and we finally meet up and make the commitment to book the trip!  So glad we did!!
The Canal du Midi ambles from the Atlantic Ocean through SW France to the area just west of Marseille. The scenery is absolutely beautiful, the ride peaceful and the stops along the way fascinating.  We travelled mid-September from Castelnaudary to Trebes on a 7 day journey.  LeBoat was the boat hire company we used; there were plenty of itineraries to choose from as well as various boat sizes with different cabin configurations.  (Hint: take one with a bow-thruster!)  We had a 4 cabin, 3 bath boat for 2 couples; there was a last minute "upgrade" since the 3 cabin/3 bath boat we had reserved was not available.  The "upgrade" worked out very nicely with plenty of space.  LeBoat does a fine job at reception giving you plenty of information, guidance and a mechanic who goes over the boat's details as well as a quick spin about to get the feel of the boat.  Now the adventure begins.....
There are locks on the Canal du Midi....the elevation from the Atlantic down to the Mediterranean Sea drops; not wanting to "surf"our way down, there are a series of locks along the canal.  We needed two people to handle the lines on our boat, not counting the Captain or our navigator!  Each of the 4 had a job and the navigator was responsible to tell the captain when the next lock was approaching.  There really is no navigating as you are either traveling up or down the canal - but it was nice to have a navigator read the charts!
The first night we anchored out and had no power hookup...we ate by candlelight, under the stars, along a tree lined path and relaxed that we had made out way through our first lock - which was a triple lock!!  It was like a set of stairs as the water level was lowered at the first lock, then we glided into the second lock, water level lowered again and then slipping into the third lock for another water level drop before finally reaching the canal for a slow cruise to anchorage.
The trip was far, far better than expected, the scenery breathtaking and the stops along the way were amazing.  We had a great time with our friends; plenty of laughter, good fun and lots of French wine at the end of each day.
The second stop of our adventure was to Bram; according to our navigator it had water and electrical hookup.  Yeah!  What a delightful surprise!  The docking was easy & affordable but the star of the stop was the  waterfront restaurant "L'Ile aux Oiseaux" - the food was incredible!  The stop was so nice we stayed 2 nights and found our way into town for the weekly market.  It was a real treat, a nice reminder of the markets we frequented while living in France....and our French was okay....at least the vendors understood our orders for macarons, cheese and bread!
We departed in the early hours of the day to reach Carcassonne by mid afternoon.  So much history in Carcassonne and we wanted to be sure to visit the old medieval city rested and ready to walk.
The municipal marina provided us with water, electric and location right in the middle of the "new" town.  First evening we walked the "new" town, found a nice place to eat and walked a bit more before heading back to the boat for a bottle of wine topside. (This is a recurring event....)
I'll write about Carcassonne medieval city in another post.
We ended our trip in Trebes and once again LeBoat was fantastic at reception to finalize the return of the boat to them.  We stayed on board for one night there and enjoyed a great evening meal of tapas at  a delightful bistro "Les Vignes de Bacchus"; it was a wonderful way to finish what was a great, great trip along the Canal du Midi.
AuRevior, Adios....and enjoy the short but delightful video!
PS - Aside from France, there are other countries where LeBoat (Leboat.com)offers boating holidays.

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Cochem, Germany....and the Mosel River

Every once in a while, I like to step back into a quieter time, enjoy a calmer pace and breathe fresh mountain air while taking in scenic river views.  Such was my last travel escape to Cochem, Germany.


Cochem is located on the Moselle River about 2 hours south of Cologne. (http://www.ferienland-cochem.de/nextshopcms/show.asp?lang=en&e1=52)  It is a charming town, with plenty of hotels, restaurants, river boats for day and/or evening cruising and slowly becoming a popular stop for river cruises. I noticed UniWorld River Cruise and Viking River Cruise ships docked there.  It's a great location for these extended cruises: the ship docks avery short distance to the village.  Of course, the Reichburg (or Cochem) Castle is a favorite tour for so many that visit, myself included.  But, what is most famous on the Moselle River (aside from the most quaint of towns and villages) is the wine.  Yes, the wine.  Not the stereotype wine I remember when I was first introduced to wine.  The wine culture here is top notch with a selection of red and white wines for every taste.  And because of the abundance of berries and fruits, there are flavored liqueurs to add a little panache to a sparkling or white wine.  I can assure you, that little extra zing of flavor in a glass of sparkling wine will make you smile!

I stayed at the Hieronimi Hotel (http://www.hotel-hieronimi.de/english/) a family run hotel with fantastic restaurant.  Breakfast was included in the room rate, in-room wi-fi was free as was the parking.  However, there is no elevator/lift....my room on the attic floor was absolutely charming, spacious and offered panoramic views from the wall of windows....however, it was 55 steps up!  I got a good work out to offset the wonderful breakfast served every morning.  The hotel is impeccable.  In addition to rooms and dining, the hotel offers wine tastings!  While I did not do the wine tasting at the hotel, I did sample some wine at the wine cellar the family owns and operates on the other side of the bridge.  The "cave" is truly a cave!  I was there several years ago and sampled so many wines, the trunk of the car was laden with wines - and I still have some today!  Really lovely wines....

The Moselle River is dotted with beautiful towns and villages on its banks.  With so many river boats offering day (or evening) cruises, how could I not?  I took a day trip down to Beilstein (http://www.beilstein-mosel.de/englisch/) and what a charming storybook village, complete with castle ruin.  Sitting down to a light lunch overlooking the river was the perfect way to relax....and the several flutes of Kir Moselle (sparkling wine with a dash of sour cherry liqueur) were the best medicine for whatever could have ailed me! ...ahhhh....

There was another day trip to Trier, Germany (http://www.trier-info.de/english/sights-in-trier).  About an hour's drive from Cochem, Trier was founded by the Romans in 16BC.  I enjoyed walking through the old town, staring into windows of the butcher shop (so many sausages!), and the farmer's market was just about closing down but not before I eyed bunches of the most beautiful grapes ever and only 2.50 euros (about $2.80) for just over a pound of them!  Lunch beckoned and it was a celebratory lunch for a friend at The Brasserie (http://www.brasserie-trier.de).  While the delicious meal was perfectly prepared and presented it was the dessert that I was most curious about: the World's Best Chocolate Pudding.  Now that's a bold statement...and it delivered!  Dark chocolate pudding with sour cherries at the bottom....O-M-G it was delicious.  And for me, they can make that claim until someone else makes a better one!  I did manage to see the Roman Gate (Porta Nigra) and it was impressive.  There are several other historical sites and plenty of museums in Trier, so it may require another visit in the future.

After several days of relaxing, dining and wining it was time to head home....here's a video of my visit to the Moselle River - hope you can make a similar visit someday soon!

Happy Travels,
Camille